Beijing culinary centennial icons are revered “Laozihao” (老字号) establishments. They are known as exceptional gastronomic restaurants that showcase almost every region of Chinese cuisine in the capital city. The title translates as ‘old brand’names¹. Each in its own uniqueness representing a high level of culinary art by remaining true to its origin.
I stumbled upon an older article that mentioned the city’s eponymous duck and its oldest surviving restaurant. “Bianyifang Kaoyadian” established in 1416, the premise originally began as a takeaway. The first characters of the Chinese name ‘Bianyifang’ roughly translate as “convenient to everyone” roast duck shop.
As the name of the shop indicates, it features a special bird, the duck, with an illustrious history. The roast duck dates back with an acknowledgement as early as the Yuan Dynasty (1202-1368). Here, it was listed among the imperial dishes in ‘The Complete Recipes for Dishes and Beverages’. For connoisseurs and curious foodies who enjoy reading more about the history of roast duck, click on the link. A different poultry topic here for the goose link. Source: A Taste of Old Peking: The Capital’s Culinary Culture Lives on in its Laozihao Restaurants | the Beijinger
Source credit: thebeijinger.com | blog author Ed Lanfranco
The Flavour of the Capital
After reading the article, my memories unfurled of an early family home trip in 1981. Unbeknownst to me at the time, I visited a few of these iconic Beijing culinary centennial establishments. One of them is the now well over 200 years old Yueshengzhai Restaurant. It is the most famous and oldest Muslim establishment in the capital city. Doors opened in 1775, by a former servant at the Qing Imperial Court named Ma Qingrui. Six generations have continued and followed the traditions after its founder.
In 2007 Yueshengzhai received recognition for processing techniques for braised mutton with soy sauce. Most noteworthy is the high standard of maintaining meal quality. This is an integral part of Beijing’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. Source: btmbeijing.com.
For more in-depth information on “The flavour of the capital” (Jingwei’r), click here for the China Heritage Newsletter link. The link includes an appendix with halal-related snacks and dishes in Beijing. The food keeps drawing local devotees and visitors to the same place. With each visit renewing one’s palate is a feast of confirmation and merit reminiscent of old Peking.
One of the featured dishes is “Baodu” made from intestines, and it is what I ate at my second visit to Beijing. The thin slices were meltingly tender and aromatic. Tripe if not cooked and seasoned correctly is unpalatable and rubbery. What surprised me was the hot-vinegary tart sauce and use of cumin. A spice which is not common in the south-eastern cuisine (my family originates from Zhejiang province). Cumin founds its way by caravan trade into China’s north-western regions Xinjiang, Mongolian and Hunan cuisines.
“BAODU 爆肚 (lamb tripe in sauce)
This seared and thinly sliced delicate tripe is made from the washed stomach lining of the sheep. It is prepared with a special sesame-based sauce that includes flavour ingredients such as cumin, pepper, chilli, and vinegar. The dish is often accompanied by shaobing, a baked unleavened layered flatbread. Baodu originates from China’s northwest; it has come to find its home in the capital.”
1,000-year-old Copper Firepots
Among the culinary centennial discoveries was seeing and enjoying the copper chimney firepot “Huo Guo”. This cooking pot is over 1,000 years old, with the origin being from Mongolia. The charcoal fuel heats the broth to a slow simmer, with smoke escaping through the chimney. In northern China, the mutton hotpot is made with sheep (lamb) bone stock as broth. Most of the copper chimneys have disappeared, replaced by digital electrical cooking pots.
The cooking pots with steaming hot broth have various choices of basic Chinese meat, fish or seafood stock. Varying seasoning of MaLa (lip-numbing hot!) or herbal infusion and more. I will mention my favourite book choices in a separate post, along with recipes to prepare your own tasty and healthy hotpot dinner(s). Other cultural influences from neighbouring cuisines, such as Thai and Korean-based stocks, are also on the menu. A new cooking vessel is known as the YinYang or Double Duck to serve a spicy and non-spicy version. This new design serves double broths, is a big hit as a home cooking utensil and restaurant serveware.
Source courtesy and photo credit: www.chinaheritagequarterly.org
For our international readers, the above serveware can be ordered online, but for Dutch readers and foodies, both items are on sale at Chinese supermarkets, e.g., Dun Yong Amsterdam, Wah Nam Hong The Hague and Amazing Oriental in Rotterdam.
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References:
- “Time honoured shops” is the official translation of 老字号. A government distinction awarded to certain brand names and shops that have proven histories. Source: Book Unequal Englishes: The Politics of Englishes Today by R. Tupas
- China’s time-honored brands struggle to survive | www.english.cctv.com
The History of Chinese Imperial Food- Beijing Halal | www.chinaheritagequarterly.org
- A Taste of Old Peking: The Capital’s Culinary Culture Lives on in its Laozihao Restaurants | www.thebeijinger.com
- Mutton like no other | www.btmbeijing.com